Wanders The World

Fèis Ìle—The Islay Festival is a yearly spring event that offers those who love whisky a chance to sample and learn of Islay’s famed peaty whisky in a fun and friendly environment. And if one doesn’t like whisky, there is no need to worry; there are other options to drink, as well as to experience Islay itself. I will get to more of that shortly, but first, I’d like to share a bit of how I came to enjoy ‘uisge beatha,’ or the ‘water of life,’ as the Scots call it.

Back when I was a teenager, while watching various TV shows and movies, I noticed that whisky was drank by men. At the time, I had heard it being called a “man’s drink” (whatever that means). Hmmph! I decided that one day I would be the woman who drank whisky, dammit! However, it wasn’t until much much later that I would go onto to try my first Scotch. When the time came, I was immediately excited. Will this transform me into the eccentric whisky swilling gal I had envisioned? Would I surprise and impress those around me for daring to drink a “man’s drink” and being so bold? Was it still considered a “man’s drink” anymore? Regardless, I took the glass, pressed it to my lips and took a good long drink. Aah…what is is that burning in my throat??!! Oh, that is strong! It’s so alcoholic! I don’t think I like this. I was so disappointed. I guess I wasn’t to be the woman who drank whisky.

Fast forward about a decade. While visiting my sister, a friend offered a sip of Irish whiskey. I was advised it was very smooth as it was triple distilled and might be the type of whiskey for me. With trepidation and then some coaxing, I raised the glass to my lips and took a sip. Aah….that is smooth! Oh that is nice, very nice! I found a whiskey to enjoy! Yet my whisky journey did not end there. Years later, I found myself in Edinburgh, Scotland for a few days. There on the Royal Mile was the Scottish Whisky Experience—a tourist attraction that introduces participants to Scotch whisky, including tastings. Keen to learn more of Scotland’s famed drink, I made my way to the entrance. It was exactly what I needed to discover that I enjoy Scotch as much as Irish whiskey. Thinking back to my initial taste of Scotch in my 20s, I realized that I likely tried too much at once and was taken aback by its intensity. Since that first sip, I have learned more of Scotland’s wonderful drink and consider myself a budding whisky enthusiast.

When the idea for this Scotland trip was hatched, my travel companion suggested that we plan our upcoming journey around the festival. In fact, it was the perfect way to combine my wanderings and grow my whisky knowledge. And it was fun too!

History

Fèis Ìle started on this Inner Hebridean island back in 1986 as the way to increase summer tourism. It grew as a celebration of the island’s community and heritage, filled with Ceilidh’s (dancing and music), history talks, and a competition of best-decorated village; an that event spanned two weeks. At the start, whisky was only a small aspect with one distillery involved. It wasn’t until 2000 that the local distilleries took a more active role, offering Open Days and eventually producing special Fèis Ìle Whisky. Today is it a collaborative union of celebrating all things Islay, beginning the last week of every May. We were in attendance for three nights, right from the start (May 24 – 27, 2024). Next year’s festival runs from May 23 – 31, 2025.

What to Expect

The popularity of this festival continues to grow. If you are interested in attending for all or part of it, I suggest to start planning early, with plenty of time. The official website (linked above and here) is a great resource. As the next festival approaches, the website will be updated with pertinent information as it becomes available. You can also sign up for the e-newsletter.

There is no ticket required to attend the festival, though there are a number of events on the island and some may require a ticket. The information comes available on the Fèis Ìle website. As they book up quickly it is a prudent idea to check the site for dates and information. Most of the distilleries offer “Distillery Days” that welcome everyone, though keep in mind that some may charge a small fee. These days are filled with fun, music, tastings, tours, and plenty of crowds. Other whisky events may be a bit smaller (such as the one we attended put on by Islay Whisky Vault store on the grounds of Islay House Square, pictured above).

Along with the Distillery Days and events you can also visit the distilleries for tastings when they are not hosting events. We actually did this for all our distillery visits, five in total. We visited Bowmore twice as it was the closest. Headed out to Coal Ila one morning and then to the event at the Whisky Vault. Our final three distilleries were on the Three Distilleries Path, where we stopped at Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig. We even participated in a tour at Ardbeg which we had booked weeks prior.

Accommodation & Transportation

As Islay is small there are limits to accommodation availability. In our case, we booked our hotel, the The Lochside Hotel in Bowmore, directly with them six months prior. I have heard other hotels and guesthouses may be available for booking even earlier. Accommodations on the island are not limited to hotels only. Bed & Breakfasts, a hostel, camp and RV sites, and self-catering and holiday homes are available. You can check popular booking sites or contact establishments directly.

The most popular way to get to Islay is via ferry. There are two options, depending on where you are coming from. CalMac Ferries (Caledonian MacBrayne) offers sailings to and from Port Ellen and Port Askaig on Islay from Kennacraig year round. They ferry both vehicles and foot passengers. Reservations are strongly recommended for this festival. Getting to Kennacraig will be dependent on where you are coming from. There are options of bus and train and I would suggest that you book those in advance as well. If you are coming from Northern Ireland you can arrive in Port Ellen via the Kintyre Express, a 12-passenger fast ferry that departs from Ballycastle. Do note that it is a seasonal ferry that does not operate in the winter. Reservations are recommended.

If you are not arriving with a vehicle, you can get around Islay via public bus and taxi service. Additionally, there are some shuttle buses at set times to take participants to certain events. Regarding public buses, note that buses do not run on Sundays. We faced that and opted to book a taxi for our day of visiting the Three Distilleries Pathway in Port Ellen. We booked our pick up and drop off times with Attic Cabs and they were punctual and pleasant. When we needed to change our return time from Laphroaig Distillery Attic Cabs was quick to accommodate us in a friendly and professional manner. I highly recommend them.

My Thoughts

I have to say that this festival was definitely worthwhile especially as it allowed me to learn more about whisky and Islay’s history of using peat in its production. I certainly want to attend it again and experience a more indepth journey and see the remaining four distilleries not yet visited. Although you can visit Islay year-round, attending this festival can add another layer to your travels. If this sounds like something you would enjoy, I suggest you attend. Slàinte Mhath!

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All photos taken and owned by Eeva Valiharju / Wanders the World